This morning, we set out in search of somewhere to have a massage, a treat I’ve promised to Wink for her birthday present. It took rather a long time to find the place … and then it was closed. Hardly downhearted at all *sigh* we remembered a beauty salon we had passed the previous day. Maybe there?

Wink is really good at remembering places. We went back to the main road and I’d have had no idea whether to turn right or left, but she had her bearings. Above the salon was a coffee shop so we went in for a drink first (air con, bliss) and then I noticed, over the road … a place that did massages, facials, manicures and so on. That we hadn’t noticed yesterday – although, to be fair, its closing day was Tuesday.

So we trotted over the road, were greeted by two young women, then by the proprietress who speaks good English and we’ve both got a pedicure and a body massage booked for this afternoon.

After that, we went by auto rickshaw in search of shops. Actually, we’re not great shoppers, me and Wink. Now we are back at the hotel, have put our feet up for a bit and are heading down to meet Maja and Marina for lunch.

Laters, darlings

Zoë

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I hasten to reassure you. I strode out into the heat of the day, I didn’t see any hydrophobic dogs: it’s a quotation.

One doesn’t walk on the pavements in India, because things are put on them and the paving slabs are often broken and uneven anyway. We wished we could because there would have been some shade, at least part of the time. But we kept going manfully, waving aside hopeful offers of rides in auto-rickshaws, until we reached the sea front, and then at least there was a breeze. We – well, Wink, who had the map – led the way to the tourist office. Having checked out what’s on offer, we’ve decided to take a bus tour on Thursday.

This afternoon we investigated the hotel pool, and very nice it is. On the rooftop with views of the city and out to sea, it’s secluded and, though small, pleasant.

I took with me a towel (brought from England), a sarong, a wrap-around skirt, sunglasses, a hat and my phone, as well as my swimsuit. Wink took her cozzie. Maybe our degrees of preparedness should meet in the middle? However, although there were plenty of towels there so I didn’t need mine, at least I didn’t have to change afterwards. I twisted the sarong into a top and wore the skirt. We really will try the roof-top restaurant tonight, having forgotten it yesterday.

Oh, and I went to a bank and changed a thousand rupee note. Quite a relief, it’s difficult to get hold of sufficient small change for tips and buying odd items.

Half past six here, darlings. Time for a drink, perhaps? Cheers.

Zoë x

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We are settled in our hotel in Pondicherry, an impressively comfortable place with a really nice shower. We had intended to eat in the 5th floor open-air restaurant tonight but, leaving the bar, we absent-mindedly turned towards the next-door ground floor eaterie instead. D’oh, darlings. We didn’t actually remember until after we had finished our meal. Wink and I had a sort-out of luggage, leaving behind anything we aren’t likely to need for the next few days in my case and taking the rest in hers. Kamala will look after my case until we go back to Chennai next Sunday. Always best to travel light. I also travel tidy. My parents having been hoteliers, my mum was always conscious that the job of chambermaid is one of the least covetable in the business. So, when I stay in a hotel, my room is always tidy. No clothes are left scattered and if anything is out it’s neat and there for a reason. Books are in a tidy pile, grubby clothes are put in a bag and back in my case, the washbasin is washed and wiped clean, the bedcovers are tidily laid back to air, the pillows plumped and the sheet smoothed. And I leave a tip. At home, I do my own cleaning so I’ll be chaotic if I want to be. But when away, the person who cleans my room won’t suffer that moment of heart-sinking or revulsion on opening the bedroom door.

The bride and groom looked fabulous of course, and very happy. I’m afraid I didn’t take pictures because the photographers were in the way, but I’m sure I’ll be able to get hold of some later. In fact, there’s too much going on for me to think about my camera most of the time – besides, it seems intrusive.

It got a bit frantic at the last because Wink, Gita and I managed to be left without a driver. We finally arrived at the wedding hall just as the ceremony started, but it’s not a faux pas like entering the church after the bride, people mill around all the time.

This afternoon, we went shopping with our new young Croatian friends, Marina and Maja. We turned out not to be half as good as Indian ladies at shopping. Having bought nothing, we wound up at a modern shopping mall. We were open-mouthed. It was huge, filled with Western-named shops, M&S, French Connection, Accessorise, you name it, and lots more besides. On five levels, each of them pretty enormous. There were loads of people, but I have the feeling that more looking than shopping was going on. We wanted to find a grocery store and found a supermarket in the basement where we bought fruit and water for our journey tomorrow. Then we queued. It was supposedly the speedy checkout but nothing is speedy in India and it took an age. We were all hot and bothered by the time we left. There was a guard on the door to check your receipt. We also found a bureau de change, which actually gave a good rate of exchange, so I changed another £100 – not that I’ve spent much of the first lot, mind you, as yet, but that’ll change in the next few days because we have been guests since Friday. Anyway, none of us cared much for the mall.

Tonight, we’re back to our friend’s house for dinner again – the wedding eve caterer, who is a friend of the bride’s, owns a couple of restaurants, one of which serves Thai food and that is what we will have this evening. Wink has taken off her sari (she’s wearing a dress, darlings, do get a grip), I know the guests will have changed but I only brought the one sari and have few chances to wear it, so I’m keeping it on. I received a lot of compliments, some from charming unknown women in shops, saying that I look very natural and wear it well, and I do enjoy wearing it.

I’m pretty confident of free wifi in hotels, so you’ll probably hear from me again. I can’t sleep much, five hours a night would be the most, but I’m having such a good time. And it’s lovely to have Wink here too, we’re having fun together.

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Indeed, that’s what is on the cards for today. Mehendi – that is, having one’s hands painted with henna in celebration of a forthcoming wedding.

Wink and I have just finished our breakfast of masala omelette (with onion and chilli) and toast and jam, with tea. We forgot to ask for black tea so it arrived mixed, that is, the milk already in it. It turned out to be coffee anyway, so no matter.

Our friends’ relations all arrived yesterday and there was a party in the evening. Huge fun. I started with a beer and then asked for a glass of water, thinking to pace myself. I said yes please to ice (made with pure water, don’t worry). Half a tumblerful arrived, which seemed a modest quantity. I sipped. Neat vodka. Me and my accent. I went and asked for it to be topped up with water. The waiters looked confounded – surely some mistake, I didn’t have enough vodka? Finally, one indicated a bottle of 7-Up. I accepted it.

It was warm and humid, I think the laughter and dancing sweated out the alcohol. I stuck to soft drinks after that, admittedly, however.

Returning after midnight, the driver took us to the Madras Club (where tonight’s reception will be held). “No, the Madras CRICKET Club” we chorused. “Where is that?” asked the driver. We four Europeans were dismayed. Marina and Maja had only flown in that morning and were exhausted already. Luckily, the mention of a socking great cricket stadium gave him the clue and he found his way here.

I’ve been catching up on some blogs – sadly, trying to type in Macy’s wv introduced a glitch and thereafter I haven’t been able to type in any comments other than the couple I had already left. So, sorry darlings, I may have to lurk. And there won’t be much time even for that in the next couple of days – it’ll be party all the way!

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I had relied on jet lag and heat exhaustion suppressing my appetite, at least for the first couple of days. *Unfortunately* is hardly the word except insofar as it relates specifically to that, but one way or another, I am rather resigned to gaining quite a few pounds while I am here, growing out of all my clothes and having to return home in my sari as it will be the only garment that expands to fit.

In short, I’m fine, enjoying myself and the food is delicious. We spent much of yesterday with our friend K, her daughter (who is getting married) ate with us although coming and going: on one of her comings she brought her fiancé so we have now met him too.

Today we hired a car and driver and sightsaw our way around parts of the city. I hadn’t realised it was as long as seven years since we were last here – its understandable that there have been some changes. Free wifi at the hotel for example – I didn’t bring my iPad in the end but it would have been a good idea to. The roads are incredibly busy, more than ever – but thinking about it, it’s the type of traffic that has changed. And I suspect that it indicates increased prosperity – very few bicycles nowadays and a huge number of motorbikes. Still the auto rickshaws of course but even they, though much the same in design, are more modern – newer, anyway – than they used to be. And I’ve only seen a single old Ambassador, the Indian Morris Oxford, the cars are all new.

Tomorrow we move from this hotel to the Madras Cricket Club, where we will be the guests of K (I kept my previous MCC temporary membership card for a long time but it was eventually used as a bookmark in, presumably, an unfinished book) and I don’t know if the wifi will be available. It’ll be great, K’s sisters will be there too so we can catch up on their news.

Zoë

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It’s simpler to blog than to add a comment on the phone – thanks for your comments, the Sage is going to reply to the wedding invites and I’ve mentioned it to Dilly too so she can remind him/check. Belt and braces Z to the end, you see, even when I forget something.

Wink managed to fit in a job interview on her way to the airport – I’m not the only multi-tasker in the family as you see – and she will receive the result by email in the next couple of days, so we will be online. I’ve promised the Sage emails, anyway.

By the way, a note for anyone getting a new hip and having to decide what it’s made of, take into the equation that you will be stopped at security every time if there is any metal in it. My china/polymer/titanium jobbie is fine in every other regard. I take the view that it gives me patience and enables me to have a pleasant chat with the security woman.

Be seeing you, darlings.

Zoë xxx

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There is indeed always something. Ironically, given that I am on my way to a wedding, I have just remembered that I didn’t get round to replying to either of the two wedding invitations sitting on my desk. I shall have a word with the Sage and ask him to see to it…yes, I say that doubtfully. I’m not sure that replying to wedding invitations is quite his bag.

I can’t remember ever going to three weddings in as little as four months before. Well, four and a half months. Fortunate that I bought a new dress for the first one and that none of the guests will be the same for either of the others. My wedding outfit is secured already.

Otherwise, I finally managed to get the work done, I think. I emailed the Nadfas minutes out with a couple of hours to spare before I left. After that, I went and bought Al wine for his birthday (happy day, Al), wrote a letter of condolence to a friend whose husband has just died, unpacked and repacked my suitcase – it is absurdly heavy. I succeeded in removing a pair of sandals, a pot of body cream, a jar of deodorant because I’d managed to pack two. The case is quite full because I’m taking presents, but they’re mostly not heavy. Maybe the case itself is. Anyway, I’ll be returning with it half empty, unless I am persuaded to do a lot of shopping. I can’t think of anything much that I want though, except a particularly gorgeous cardamon flavoured halva that I buy every time I go through the departure gate at Chennai airport. I know of no other place to buy it. Just as well, perhaps. If I had a steady supply I should eat it every day.